The Road Trip of a Lifetime…..
Breathtaking, Mesmerising, Magical, Dramatic…. shall I go on? Ok…Mystical, Jaw dropping, Heavenly, Unforgettable. I could go on and on and on and those who know me well will vouch that I am never lost for words.
I like to think I am well travelled, after all I do suffer from a serious case of Wanderlust so I feel qualified to say that my experience of one of the most talked about Campervan trips in the UK was up there with the best trips I have been lucky enough to have travelled in Europe, actually perhaps the best!
This famous route, which you can walk, bike or drive is a campervan dream, there is nothing quite like taking to the open road with a tank full of freedom and sense of adventure. However it is extremely popular throughout the summer months so you need to book well in advance (possibly a year) and ensure you take a dose of campervan etiquette along with you. More of that later….
Lakes Escape Campers was always launched to share the beauty of the Lake District our homeland, our knowledge of the Lakes allows us to offer our lovely road trippers to get the best out of their holibobs. However saying that, on my last count over half of our customers are collecting our vans before heading up to Scotland and with our unlimited mileage head up North to the Highlands to join the pilgrimage of the ‘NC500’ so it felt only right that we experienced it ourselves so we can pass on our thoughts and tips on this tour. What an excuse eh!
One of the first things we need to share which we are constantly asked is how long do you need? Well, due to other commitments we did this in 5 days, was this long enough? No. Is it possible? Yes.
To do the full round trip we ask that our vans are booked for at least 7 days to enable them to be rested. Our girls are full of energy but need their beauty sleep so you get the best out of them on this 516 round trip.
Our whistle Stop tour including Monty Dog (there are 3 in this marriage) started and ended in Inverness and was pretty full on, staying one night at a time which believe you me takes a lot of setting up and packing away so if you want a more relaxing road trip we recommend staying a couple of days in certain areas to get the most out of the campers and the outstanding areas.
I am writing this blog, fresh after returning home and my head is whirring with what to write and how best to share it so I have decided to share our highlights, but as with every road trip, its personal to you and as we always say, you have to go and have your own adventure.
Route Overview
The NC500 starts in the northern city of Inverness, weaves along the west coast to Applecross and then northwards towards the towns of Torridon and Ullapool. From there, you’ll venture to some of the most northerly coastal points in Scotland, passing by Caithness and John o’ Groats before heading south again through Dingwall and finally back to Inverness.
Our vans are ready for collection from approx 3.30pm therefore we recommend stopping in Aviemore which is a 5 hour journey ( ish ) with a couple of stops. All our girls should rest after approx. 200 miles please. Aviemore is only 30 minutes from Inverness. Aviemore is stunning! They are starting to enforce more ‘No Overnight Parking’ in the car parks so you will find campers parked up in the laybys on the side of the road on the way up to Glenmore. Wild Camping is at your own risk and although not illegal in Scotland you will have to be mindful where you park up. It will be dark and late on arrival and on this occasion we did pull in very discreetly and left early the next day. For those who want a day or so in Aviemore then there is a great campsite at Loch Morlich. Perfect if you are travelling with your pooch as there is a fantastic Loch walk and Dog Friendly Beach. Aviemore has great fish and chips, a huge Tesco for stocking up and Petrol Station for refueling before heading off on your road trip!
You can choose to do the NC500 Clockwise ( West ) or Anti Clockwise ( East ) we flipped a coin and went to the West first. Ok I rigged it, I was hunting for hidden beaches and chomping at the bit sshhh…. It is also no secret that the West coast is a scenic paradise and the most breathtaking of the two sides.
As we had a short time scale we did skip the start at Applecross so weaved our way towards the Gairloch peninsula.
I think it important to stress that the roads at the start of the NC500 ( Applecross – Torridon ) _ can get very tricky and it is suggested in the guide books that only confident drivers should attempt this and defiantly not in the winter ( No **** Sherlock ) So when planning your trip do your research J It is also described as the most exhilarating and worth every gasp. If you are not a confident driver with a head for heights then it might be a good idea to cut across to Gairloch like we did, although we will be doing this leg another time J
We had heard about the Badachro Inn which was perched on the end of the water but as Scotland had just opened up after Lockdown it was CLOSED…Grrrr….this will be a busy place and was a real gem to find so of course I smiled and thanked the man who wouldn’t serve me a swift one and we went on our merry way back to the van for a cuppa…
For my first swim I had heard about the bays around Gairloch, Mellon Udrigle and Gruinard Bay. Gairloch was our first stop and was very picturesque and the vans Sat Nav told me there was a lovely hotel around the corner…were they serving beer..Yes! Were they open? Not quite….its amazing what happens when you offer to buy the barmaid a large one…Yes we were served our first Scottish Real Ale..Yum! This also gave me some dutch courage to swim in Gairloch Bay..Ok it was a dip as one shouldn’t drink before a swim and it was a tad cold but I got wet on the West Coast of Scotland woo hooo…
We hadn’t booked anywhere on our first night and found the most amazing place to stay…and the worst thing is I can’t tell you..I pinky promised the lady that I was not to advertise this secret small campsite off the beaten track..its killing me but I have to respect the locals and I will make up for it later..remember you have to have your own adventure!
The second day was just magical! I get goosegumps just thinking about it. A stop for lunch at The Sea Shack in Ullapool is a must. Fresh seafood including Oysters ( remember what happens in the van stays in the van J ) It was lush…and a much needed pit stop..good place to refuel too. Some people stay in Ullapool but I recommend a quick visit and then heading up on the most spectacular drive up to Clachtoll passing Ardveck Castle on Loch Assynt. A short walk along the beach and a great place to take a photo and feel a piece of Scottish Clan History.
The drive from here to Clachtoll Beach is beautiful…I am know Geologist but you would be in Geo Heaven here, with all the rock formations..WOWZA..the colours of the rock pools…I wanted to jump in but I was saving myself for what was the highlight of my trip ACHMELVICH BAY. This was just 15 mins from Clachtoll Beach Campsite where we were booked in. Look at the photos!!!! I felt like I was on my own private island…white sandy beaches and turquoise waters, who needs to go to the Caribbean. Ok so it was colder but in the summer months it will be warmer. There are two bays, go to the smaller. Park up and keep to the left.
On the short drive to Clachtoll you will be thinking you are in the middle of nowhere but then perched on its own stunning beach is Clachtoll Beach Campsite. The owner is super friendly and we got a seaview ( on request ) The facilities are the best I have seen. Warm Showers ( yay ) Washing Machines, great changing areas and a wee shop near by. The downside – Not great phone reception..oh well can’t have it all. You could and should stay here for 2 nights, in fact from next year that is the minimum stay. One nights stay was £23, a bargain. What hotels can you stay in at that price with sea views at a premium. The owner specifically told me to tell you that they sell out every year quickly.
From here you can swim and kayak, walk long the sea cliffs to The Old Man Of Stoer ( short drive away ), Visit a light House and get the most wonderful sunsets. LURVED this place.
On my ‘to do list’ was a visit to Handa Island to see the Puffins…we got there at 2.30pm only to be told the last wee boat was 2pm ( L ) at £20 each you can cross the bay to walk and see the Puffins and swim in the Bays. This is a must!
After my temper tantrum ( privately ) we headed towards the beautiful beach of Old Shoremore voted one of the most beautiful beaches in the world!! a slice of paradise..if only you could bottle it up! All beaches we visited were Dog Friendly and empty but they will be busier peak season. A quick dry and then up and up and up we went to the very top passing Munro and Munro after Munro..a huge tease for the hubby who is more a mountain man and hates to get wet.
The last stretch up to Durness (30 minutes or so) was a little bit disappointing but maybe I peaked with the beaches, after a long day I also wanted to park up with the Ullapool Gin I bought (Did I mention that ) The weather was starting to change too and we were in Scotland brrrr..
Sango Sands was once again a perfect site on top of huge cliffs and we were rewarded with more seaviews. There was also something rather special about being at the top of the country, as far as you could go. This site is the best there is in the area and we paid £23.50 for the night with electric hook up so again it didn’t break the bank. Amazing warm showers, a take away service and a brekkie bar in the morning serving bacon butties for those lazier non cooking mornings.
Smoo Cave is literally a couple of minutes away and worth a walk down, it is £20 for the boat ride in the cave which I found rather expensive ( I can be so stingy ) so we were happy having a walk up and down. The drive down over The Tongue was once again very scenic but I do have to say that in my opinion not a patch on the West Coast but there were some beautiful beaches which were popular with surfing. Due to the time of year we felt there was not a lot open i.e cafes which we assume will be in abundance in the peak months so we thrilled to find a great spot outside Betty Hill.
John O Groats was our next destination and who could miss the photie under the signs and once there The Orkney Islands were in touching distance, one for the future me thinks..
Just after John O Groats you have to go to Duncansby Bay, 10 minutes away. Park at the lighthouse, walk down and see the dramatic cliffs and sea stacks and colony of birds…I was determined to see my first puffin and spotted something peaking at me…a kind photographer let me peer through his lens and there he was..my first puffin!
Needless to say we were incredibly lucky with the weather as after my puffin encounter the heavens opened and it all got very bleak, so much so we decided to head back to Aviemore and not stay on the East Coast. I wish I could tell you more as I know there are Castles and Lairds such as Durnoch Castle on the East Coast but I wasn’t feeling it as much as the West Coast and for those who know me I always peak to early.
Like I said, van trips are about having your own adventure, I will leave my Wild Scotland Book in the van for you to have a read and make your own itinerary but these were my highlights. Was it hard work in 5 days..yes…did I row with the other half umm..only when I left the van keys at The Old Man of Stoer an hours walk back and the other half of Lakes Escape Campers had to run back.
Would I do it all again?…hell yeah in a heartbeat 🙂
**Campervan Etiquette**
Please remember to plan your trip in advance. It is crucial for the wellbeing of Scotland’s landscapes, as well as for local residents and businesses, that the areas around the route are respected and looked after properly. A few things to keep in mind:
- Take all litter, waste and rubbish away with you to dispose of correctly
- Book your accommodation in advance; don’t park or stay outwith designated camping/caravan areas
- Follow the Scottish Outdoor Access Code to ensure the landscape is left how you found it